Tag Archives: language

Profile: Adonisse Couton

Adonisse Couton

Name Adonisse Couton
Age 27
Occupation Unemployed Social Worker
Lives With: Mother, age 57; father, age 62
When I think of America, I think: I don’t know much about the US. I’ve never worked with an American or had an American friend so I don’t know much about the country.
Americans should know about Benin: I can’t explain all of Benin. There is a lot here and I invite all Americans to come and visit. I hope that the relationship between Benin and the US continues to strengthen.
Languages spoken: French, Goun, Fon
Education: Graduated from university.

 

Profile: Yves Mindin

Yves Mindin

Name Yves Mindin
Age 59
Occupation Jewelry artist and decorator; Factory worker
Lives With: Lives by himself.
When I think of America, I think: America is the country of intelligence. It is a country with financial security. A country of inventions.
Americans should know about Benin: Benin is a country of intelligence, too. We are strivers. We don’t have oil, gold or other natural resources. But we work hard to have a good life. You have to be very intelligent to make that happen with so few natural resources.
Languages spoken: French, English, Goun, Fon, Yoruba
Education: Through 12th grade; no diploma.

 

Profile: Ida Gbovi

Ida Gbovi

Name Ida Gbovi
Age 27
Occupation Factory worker
Lives With: Husband and three daughters: age 6, age 4, age 6 months.
When I think of America, I think: America is a good country. Americans are very intelligent.
Americans should know about Benin: We work hard here. We work a lot. To make a life here, to find something to eat, we work hard.
Languages spoken: French, Goun, Fon, Yoruba
Education: Through 11th grade.

Profile: Gerard Sagbo

Gerard Sagbo

Name Gerard Sagbo
Age 39
Occupation Entrepreneur and Small Business Owner
Lives With: Wife and three daughters: age 6, age 4, age 6 months.
When I think of America, I think: America is a well organized country capable of participating in the development of other countries.
Americans should know about Benin: Benin is a small country next to the large Nigeria. Nigeria is much better known than us. Americans should know that Benin is small but very capable, too. There are lots of men, women and children here working to contribute to the development of our nation.
Languages spoken: French and Goun
Education: Through 9th grade.

Profile: Pierre Adamon

Pierre in the barber's chair in his shop.

Pierre in the barber’s chair in his shop.

Name: Pierre Adamon
Age: 25
Occupation: Barber
Lives with: Lives by himself.
When I think of America, I think: I don’t know much about the U.S.
Americans should know about Benin: Beninese people are friendly and warm. We like meeting people from all countries. We want to improve ourselves. We aren’t looking for money but for training that can help us improve.
Languages spoken: Goun, Torri
Education: Completed one year of schooling in Nigeria.
Standing outside of his barber shop.

Standing outside of his barber shop.

Profile: Geoffroy Haunkanrin

Geoffroy Haunkanrin

Name: Geoffroy Haunkanrin
Age: 23
Occupation: Tailor’s Apprentice (in 5th year of 5 year apprenticeship)
Lives with: Mother, age 39; Father, age 50; 5 brothers and 5 sisters
When I think of America, I think: Barrack Obama is the president.
Americans should know about Benin: We cultivate the land and raise animals. Both are very important here. Vodun is also very important. That is the religion and tradition of our ancestors.
Languages spoken: French, Goun, Torri
Education: Through 7th grade.

 

What I Do

I’m like many Peace Corps Volunteers in that my roles and responsibilities at work are constantly evolving. It’s normal, but unfortunately keeps me from sharing work updates on this blog because it’s hard to know what to write. I’d be hard-pressed to describe a typical workday, but if any single day could capture my work here in Benin, a certain Wednesday in late February would serve pretty well. Let me tell you about it.

I’m part of the Community Economic Development program, whose broad goals are business development and personal money management. I work with market gardening and food processing collectives through a local office of the national agricultural extension service. Beginning in September when Adam and I moved to our site, I started building relationships with the collectives, including one that processes palm oil.

Collectives are common here, but they vary in format. Some are for women only (although men often hold the leadership roles), some are mixed. Some focus on gardening, some on processing, some on services (like musical performance) and some lack focus at all. In some groups, members work together closely and pool profits; in others, the members work more independently. There is a strong tendency to form collectives, particularly among women, but many of them don’t reap the full potential benefits.

The collective that this story is about owns land, a building and equipment, which are rare assets. The women are all concerned primarily with other home-based businesses, but they benefit greatly from the collective during the palm harvest season, when they use the giant boiling vats and settling tanks to extract oil.

Through the course of our initial meetings with the group, when we were trying to assess their needs and plan our intervention, my counterpart and I learned that the women had participated in a loan association in the past with good results. Loan associations can be really useful for people who don’t qualify for formal loans or can’t afford the risk (even of microcredit). The way they work is that a group manages a fund that each member is entitled to borrow from in turn, with fees and penalties that go back to the pool of capital. They are self-regulated based on trust, mutual interest and personal reputation.

The collective’s prior loan association had long since paid out its dividends and wrapped up, and the women were interested in starting anew. I was excited to help them, but wondered what obstacles were preventing the group from doing this on its own. If they’d had success in the past, why wouldn’t they just replicate the process? Turns out their first association had received start-up money to fund its loans.

It was a clever arrangement that had enabled all the collective’s members to benefit individually from a grant made to the group. Now the women were waiting for another donor to start again, but that’s not something I am able or willing to arrange for them. First of all, Peace Corps Benin does not provide seed funds for loan associations. But more importantly, I know that the women could self-fund their loans and that doing so would be a more empowering, sustainable and capacity-building exercise than accepting external funding.

At any rate, I had agreed to help the women form a loan association, and my counterpart and I had scheduled a small meeting with the group’s leaders to talk about the methods. I got hold of a good village savings and loan association training program from a fellow volunteer and talked it over with my counterpart, who was really enthusiastic about the program. Since he is also working with the president of the collective on a separate project, he combined errands and scheduled the two meetings back-to-back. Thus began my Wednesday.

We arrived at the association president’s home, shook hands and exchanged greetings. Meeting times here are more like guidelines than rigid plans. “We’ll meet at 10am” means, “Show up at 10am and I’ll most likely be there, or at least be willing to head over pretty soon after you show up.” Now that we’d arrived, the president put on some music, sent a kid to go buy sodas and started calling participants on his phone to tell them to head over. Every five minutes or so, another participant arrived, the greetings were repeated and someone pulled up another chair.

I sat on the sidelines and observed while the group made small talk in Fon (the de facto common language of this group.) Once everyone had arrived, my counterpart and his colleague went through their business. I kept busy by rereading and refining my notes in preparation for our part of the meeting because I don’t speak Fon and couldn’t follow their conversation.

Official meetings always require me to carefully plan what I’m going to say. I come equipped with a vocabulary list of key French words and phrases in case I draw a blank—in this instance cotiser (“to pay dues or contributions”), dispositive (“system”), parts (“shares”) and prêter (“to loan”). If I’m going to be explaining a detailed concept I bullet it out so that I can maintain a clear logical flow and don’t skip over important information.

The first piece of business wrapped up an hour or so later, and we took a break for orange sodas. Since my piece of business was unrelated to the previous stuff, the president had to call several leaders of the women’s group and tell them to come. Again, we shot the breeze for a half hour or so while everyone assembled. The CD started over from track one for the third (maybe the fourth) time. I decided I should buy a copy.

Once the women arrived my counterpart and I presented our training proposal. The program we proposed is simple, self-driven and has room for growth. Under this system, a group of about 20 people meets weekly to make mandatory deposits. They decide what the minimum and maximum payments are at the outset, based on what they know they can pay. Once some capital is accrued—a couple of months—the group starts making loans, and it continues to make new loans as often as money is available. The members decide whether to approve loans based on the quality of the borrower’s plan, with the amount based on how much that person has paid in already. All told, the association functions for about one year, after which the savings, plus profits from service fees, late fees and penalties are divvied out to the members in proportion to their inputs.

These systems have a track record of helping people who don’t have the resources and connections to establish formal savings accounts or qualify for formal loans. It’s a good fit for the women in this collective, who normally save money by hiding it at home, where it’s vulnerable and doesn’t collect interest. I thought the women would see what I saw: a low-risk, low-effort, affordable system that would benefit them all for a long time. I expected a strong positive reaction.

Instead, there was silence.

And discontent. Palpable discontent.

Nobody made eye contact. People slouched in their chairs. Tooth-sucking noises and disgruntled sighs were the only things that broke the silence. Those and the flies buzzing audibly around my orange soda.

I surreptitiously checked my vocab list to boost my confidence and broke the impasse by stating the obvious: “You don’t like the loan system.” The group spoke enough French that this meaning was clear.

No, they informed me, they did not. The women had believed I was going to deliver a grant to serve as the loan capital; otherwise they would not have been interested. I had been expected to come to this meeting with a checkbook (or better yet, cash). Instead I proposed that they invest time and money in an untested system that would offer much smaller loans (at least at first).

I was embarrassed about my clumsy misunderstanding and disappointed that I had let the group down. But before those two feelings, I was just mad.

My counterpart and I had explained in great detail—more than once—that I had not come to this community to disburse funds or to implement top-down projects. Peace Corps volunteers are meant to develop projects in cooperation with community partners, and any grants we obtain require a substantial local contribution. However, most people here are used to being targeted for more passive development programs, where they are offered training and equipment as part of projects designed from far away. These programs can be beneficial, but they have also instilled a certain degree of inertia by spending on readymade solutions that don’t stimulate local innovation.

I had been confident that we were all on the same page, and that I was about to begin a really constructive project with this group, but in fact they had heard what they wanted to. I might draw strong distinctions between myself and other development workers here, but it turns out that the people I work with don’t see a big difference.

I did feel bad about the misunderstanding, but I was frustrated and lost my patience. I responded, too harshly, that I believe it’s better to start where you can rather than waiting for external aid. The group should pool its resources, I explained, and build them up. The vocabulary fairies blessed me even though I had not prepared a list for this contingency. Adrenaline is magic. I finished what was probably the longest and least stuttering—and certainly most forthcoming and opinionated—flow of speech these people had ever heard out of me. I cringed and held by breath as my counterpart translated, although my tone and body language said it all. I was pretty sure I’d overstepped.

To my surprise, the president threw up his arms and exclaimed, “We’ll do it. We’ll start! Jennifer is right!”

A murmur of general agreement emerged, but the vice president remained silent, clearly unconvinced. I turned to him and asked what he thought, and he brought up a salient point: all the members of the collective had believed I was coming with money, and they would not be convinced otherwise. The leaders could say whatever they wanted, but nothing could prove they weren’t hiding the money. “Look at all these soda bottles!” he said. “These women will think we partied.”

The ice-cold reception we’d received now made much more sense. It dawned on me that we were all in a pickle. Not only was there a disappointing absence of money, but we now had the task of repudiating blind faith. In light of this, I felt bad for lashing out, and I apologized.

And how did they respond this time?

“Jennifer,” they said, “we know you never said you had money. We know you said you don’t have money for us. It’s just what we believe. We always believe that yovos are going to bring us stuff.”

And then, after a pause, “Don’t people ask you for money all the time?”

As if maybe I’d been living on another planet.

I told them their jobs are more difficult than mine, and we had another round of sodas.

The Month When the Year’s Rain Starts

 

 

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In Gun (our local language) March is xwejisun—“the month when the year’s rain starts.” It’s the hottest part of the year now, so we’re excited for the cooling rains. We’ve had a couple downpours, but the best was one truly gigantic lightning storm that lit up the sky for hours and brought the temperature down by about 20 degrees. Adam and I sat on the porch whooping with joy until the chilly, driving rain sent us indoors. For hours before and after the rains passed over us, the sky was flashing nonstop, and Adam make some long-exposure self-portraits.

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Yesterday morning, the skies held potential for rain again, but the clouds passed and burned away. I’m excited about the rainy season because it will cool off, but also because we can collect the water that pours off our back roof, and it means less time pulling water from the well!

The Yovo Song Post

To prepare for coming to Benin, I read a lot of volunteer blogs. A recurring theme in them was The Yovo Song; almost all the blogs included some kind of diatribe against it. ‘Yovo’ is the term that southern Beninese use to refer to white people. The Yovo Song (really a chant) goes a few steps further:

         Yovo, yovo, bonsoir!

         Ça va bien?

         Merci!

         {BONUS LINE (rarely heard) : Et chez vous?}

         Yovo, yovo, good evening!

         Is it going well?

         Thank you!

         {BONUS LINE (rarely heard) : And with you?}

Urban legend has it that kids invented the song decades ago to greet white visitors who came to Benin with gifts. As the story goes, it continues to be passed on through generations. Although the blogging volunteers said this song drove them crazy, I had trouble envisioning myself being tormented by singing children. Lo and behold, the Yovo Song phenomenon hit me like a ton of bricks from day one in our town.

I hear ‘yovo’ hundreds, sometimes thousands, of times each day. Every time I leave the house, the bombardment begins. Adults often say ‘yovo’ kind of as a synonym for ‘hello.’ Equally often, they shout it reflexively when I pass by. If I respond, that might be the end of it. But they also might shout ‘Yovo!’ at me again, just for good measure.

          Neighbor: Yovo!

         Me: Bonjour!

         Neighbor: YO-vo!

         Me: Ça va?

         Neighbor: Yo-VO!

         Me: Et la famille?

         Neighbor: YOVOOO!

(I’m tempted to chalk it up to a language barrier, but even people who don’t speak French usually know basic greetings.)

But children love to sing the song. Repeatedly. They are excited because I’m unusual and they want to be acknowledged. Often when I respond with eye contact and a wave or a quick salutation, they dissolve into shy giggles, hide behind each other, or run away. But if it’s a really excited group of the littlest kids—and they can get really excited—they scream at the top of their lungs and jump up and down dance. It’s hysterical, and they keep shouting until I’m out of earshot. The littlest kids don’t know all the words, but that doesn’t stop them. ‘Yovo, yovo, bonsoir! Sa buuuuh nuuuuh? Mmmmmm-mmmmmeh!’

‘Yovo’ isn’t an unfriendly term. Name-calling like this isn’t unique to white people; there’s a tendency here to use titles in place of names for everyone. Many adult women go by ‘mama [their kid’s name],’ or simply ‘mama.’ My coworkers refer to each other by an alphabet soup of job title acronyms. (Since five of them are ‘CPV’ I often haven’t the slightest clue who we’re talking about.) The older men at my job are called ‘doyen,’ a word that respectfully acknowledges their status as senior colleagues. (Except for the light-skinned one, who is ‘yovo.’) The Togolese woman who sells deconstructed tamales at Adam’s workplace is, logically, ‘Togo.’

‘Yovo’ is inclusive. Beninese don’t differentiate much among non-black races: we’re all outsiders together. Access to foreign media and internet are the exception, not the norm, even here in our large town close to the capital. There’s no internet café here; you can’t even buy a newspaper. Our town’s schools have extremely limited resources, so there are no maps of Benin, Africa, other continents, or the world. ‘Yovo’ can refer to anyone with relatively pale skin, just as ‘chinois’ can refer to me, Adam, or any of the three Japanese volunteers who live in our town. Never mind that none of us are Chinese.

Even if ‘yovo’ isn’t derogatory, it is complicated. It goes hand-in-hand with a few other vexing behaviors. In place of greetings, we’re often hit with demands for our money, helmets, bicycles, or pants. In addition, teenagers frequently greet us in falsetto. They talk to each other that way, too, but it can seem really mocking anyway. Responding in a deep bass will get you a blank stare, but high-voicing back sometimes starts a conversation.

There are times when ‘yovo’ is followed by laughter of the ‘at you,’ not the ‘with you,’ variety, and those times are upsetting, but the incessant garden-variety yovo-ing is what really bothers me. It’s dehumanizing to be always called a name. I feel hurt that people call me by a catch-all label even after we become acquainted. I feel offended that the chant never changes from ‘bonsoir,’ even when I’m out running at pre-dawn. I feel disheartened when I say ‘kaalo’ (‘good morning’ in Gun) and only get back ‘yovo.’ It saddens me to always elicit a knee-jerk epithet, rather than a genuine interaction.

At the end of the day, I understand that ‘yovo’ is just the way that people here relate to people like me. It’s what I’m called because it’s what I am. Sure, I live in a concession with Beninese neighbors, shop at the local market, and wear Beninese-style outfits. But I am so conspicuously different it’s laughable: I have a new mountain bike, top-of-the-line helmets for motorcycle and bike, well-made shoes, band-aids, an e-reader.

It’s not only my white skin and possessions that make me a yovo, it’s my behavior, too. Take the way I schedule my time for example. When making plans I prefer to set a specific hour. Beninese people are more comfortable saying ‘in the afternoon.’ Let’s say I make an appointment with the carpenter, and he’s an hour late by my clock. Maybe it’s because he went to do a job in Cotonou for a respected customer, and the old man offers him a beer and wants to talk afterward. I call the carpenter to ask when he’ll arrive. ‘Right now’ is his answer, even though he is a two-hour drive away in Cotonou, because he intends to stop what he’s doing as soon as he politely can and come to my house. I should have taken ‘in the afternoon’ for an answer!

I’m also comparatively uptight about privacy and personal information. If I’m biking through town on my way to a meeting, it’s acceptable for a complete stranger to shout ‘Stop!’ and ask who I am, where I live, where I’m from, where I’m going, what I’ll do there, if I have kids, and more. I’m taken aback that a stranger feels entitled to hold me up and ask all these questions, but I have to remember that I’m the stranger here. If I worry that this will make me late, I shouldn’t, because chance encounters like these cause everyone to show up late from time to time, and it’s acceptable.

One of my biggest reasons for joining the Peace Corps was to experience life in another culture, a process that sounds marvelous but in practice is sometimes rough. I come from a culture that prizes individuality, but that’s not Benin. To accept being called ‘yovo’ feels like a loss of individuality, but it’s a part of Beninese culture and there’s no stopping it. Not every ‘Yovo!’ is an invitation to chat, but it’s not a slur either. So I’m learning to hear ‘yovo’ with Beninese ears.

Greetings From Benin On Election Day

At work I share an office with Julian, a man who fully embraces the Beninese habit of making very brief phone calls simply to greet his friends and family. Conforming to Beninese custom, these greetings comprise a series of inquiries about spouse, parents, children, household, work, animals, crops, health, journeys, and more.

In some communities it’s rude not to pose a litany of such questions before starting a conversation, and it makes sense as a way of keeping up with your neighbors lives and the community news. We live in a large town, so not everyone knows each other, and here it’s more common to append a simple ‘Bonne’ (Good) onto whatever the subject happens to be doing. This produces normal salutations most of the time, like Bonne Route (Good Trip), Bon Travail (Good Work), Bon Appétit (Good Meal). But there are some funny ones, too—Bonne Assis (Good Sitting), Bon Sport (Good Sports, for when you’re out running), Bonne Digestion (that’s a direct translation, for when someone’s sitting in front of an empty plate).

Also typically Beninese, Julian punctuates long silences with greetings as well. The other morning I was at my desk for a few hours. During this time, Julian worked steadily on his computer, stopping every once in a while to place a phone call or check in on me. Our desks sit at ninety-degree angles a few strides away from each other, so he can easily look up and keep tabs on me.

Coworker: Jennifer, Jennifer Lopez. It’s going well?

Jennifer (not Lopez): It’s going, thanks. And you?

Coworker: I’m good.

…a few minutes later…

Coworker: Jennifer, you are there? (Another typical Beninese greeting.)

Jennifer: Yes. How are you?

Coworker: It’s going.

…a few minutes later…

Coworker: Jennifer, Jennifer Lopez. Good sitting.

Jennifer: Thanks.

Coworker: And Adam? He’s there?

Jennifer: Yes, he’s well. And your wife?

Coworker: She’s fine, thanks.

…a few minutes later…

Coworker: Jen-NI-fer. (People often sing-song my name when they have nothing in particular to say.) How are you?

Jennifer: Good, thanks, and you?

Coworker: Good. And Adam?

Jennifer: He’s fine.

Coworker: And your house?

Jennifer: It’s fine.

Coworker: And in the US? Your family?

Jennifer: They’re good, thanks. I talked to my mom yesterday.

Coworker: That’s good, that’s good… and Obama?

This was followed by a short pause, and then we both laughed out loud. But the question actually led to an interesting discussion of the upcoming US elections and what is the optimal term length for a president. (Boni Yayi, the Beninese president, gets a maximum of two, five-year terms.) It echoed a well-informed interest in American politics that many Beninese hold, as well as a particular affection for Obama that manifests itself in all sorts of ways. Porto Novo has Obama Bar and Obama VIP Lounge. There is Obama Beach in Cotonou (which I’m told is operated by a Nigerian named Prince William… ha!). I have purchased Obama playing cards (made in China), and if I wanted one I could get an ‘Obama Girl’ shirt (apparently there is no such thing as an ‘Obama Boy’ though, so Adam’s out of luck). Plastic cargo bags with Obama’s face? Not hard to find. And there is Obama Beer.

Well, more accurately, there are lots of posters and ads for Obama beer, but it’s not normally served at bars. The other day I went with some coworkers after work to get lunch at a buvette (open-air bar where food is usually served). Men would definitely order beer at mid-day, but most of my coworkers are female, and I wanted to see what they did, so I asked for a bottle of water. (Besides, I had deliberately dehydrated myself before heading out for field work in the equatorial sun, to avoid having to pee somewhere awkward, so I desperately needed water.) Turns out everyone but me got beer. The most popular brand here is La Beninoise—The Beninese. When the drinks came around, this led to questions.

Coworker: Jennifer, you don’t like drinking beer?

Jennifer: Yes, I drink beer, but today I’m really thirsty and I needed water. Next time, I’ll get a beer.

Coworker 2: No, Jennifer doesn’t like La Beninoise. She only drinks Obama Beer.

Jennifer: Ha ha, no, I haven’t had Obama Beer yet. I really want to try some.

Coworkers, All: What?! No. That’s what you drink in America. That’s the beer Americans drink!

And this remains an ongoing joke between me and my coworkers. So, while Obama and his policies are much discussed and mostly admired here in Benin, there are some misconceptions about how we Americans brand our Commander in Chief.

Adam and I are staying at the Peace Corps Workstation tonight and tomorrow to watch the election returns on television. I haven’t seen American news in over a year, and I think the elections are always a fun TV event, so it’ll be fun. But I also need to pay close attention to the state-by-state breakdown and the political analysis so I can discuss it when we return to site—I am sure I will get lots of questions.

Bon Voting!